Valley visits

Our car stereo has a Tuner option only. Radio stations on this island leave something to be desired (good music). Hence, our purchase of a supplemental stereo system. Our sweet sound system blasted out such classics as "A-B-C" and "Tell Me What You Want" on the drive to Waipio Valley. My power to select music disappeared when The C grabbed the iPod and declared that my selection of The Jackson Five and The Spice Girls eliminated my ability to select music for the group. She and Jon may have played "better" music after that, but my a capella rendition of "Mmm Bop" left no question as to my taste in music, and singing ability.

Needing to prepare ourselves for the day's adventures, we stopped at the Waipio Coffee Company to fill our cups with fortifying coffee, no room for cream or sugar thanks. The folks working there are rad. One guy paused in his frenetic attempt to keep up with orders to laugh at the irony of Jon, wearing a M.A.D.D. t-shirt, singing along to the Bob Marley filling the shop.

A white sand beach was the previous day's adventure. Today it would be not just a black sand beach but a black sand beach tucked down inside a gorgeous valley: Waipio Valley. Sacred Waipio Valley, the "Valley of the Kings", was the boyhood home of King Kamehameha I and is an important site in Hawaiian history and culture. The valley is one mile across and 5 miles deep with a 1,300 foot waterfall at the back end of the valley (tallest waterfall on the Big Island. Still haven't seen it up close). Less than 100 people still live in the valley though oral histories say that before Captain Cook's arrival, between 4,000 and 10,000 people lived there. A massive tsunami hit the valley in 1946 after which most people left the valley.

How does one get down into the valley? Since the valley's sides rise almost 2,000 feet a road with grades that reach 25% provides access. With a four-wheel drive the narrow road can be tamed, but our little Civic wouldn't stand a chance. So we walked. Fortunately clouds blocked the sun. In previous visits I'd been baked by the sun on the unshaded descent. Unfortunately, the clouds muted some of the colors and provided only a misty, yet still amazing, views.

As we descended I made sure to stop now and then to take in the view. It had nothing to do with aching knees, truly. I wanted to stop and pet the mosses and sniff the noni fruit. Cars passed by us with nary a head turned to offer encouragement or the much desired ride. Finally we hit bottom. A muddy rutted road with gorgeous overhanging trees led us toward the beach and the crashing ocean. Puddles along the way offered mirror glimpses of the sky and mosquitoes began to multiply and satiate their malnourished bodies with our fluids. Fortunately the scenery was grand enough to offset the buzzing and itching.

Waipio Valley was once one of the major places of refuge on the island, a sanctuary where a person could escape and be forgiven, whatever their transgression. Somewhat similar to the right of asylum in a church. I have to say, what a place to seek refuge! Entry much have been brutal, either down the steep cliffs or in from the crashing ocean. After that, I could think of much worse places to have to hang out. Even though it remained mostly overcast, sizable waves crashed and the beauty was inescapable.

Finally wearying of beauty, the return hike commenced. Again I say fortunately the clouds maintained their vigil in the sky because our silent pleas to passing vehicles for a ride went unanswered. Slog, slog, up to the top. Although we didn't swim it looked like we had by the time we reached the car. Gross, I know, but true.

A couple of valleys over from Waipio Vally is Pololu Valley. By boat it's a short ride away. By foot you climb up out of Waipio (opposite the parking lot and overlook), down the other side into another valley, up the far wall and down the other side, repeat once more and you're there. Or you could be there if one of the valleys wasn't private with through traffic prohibited. Our choices limited, we drove back out through Waimea, up over the Kohala Mountains, through Hawi and down the coast to Pololu Valley.

The Kohala Mountains are big green cuddly looking mountains rarely visible because of the clouds and rain-hence their greenness. When allowed out to play they make me want to climb up and roll down on what looks to be soft goodness. Until a closer look (and common sense) reminds the looker that all is lava rock here and that green won't guard against the pain. I don't think I'll ever give up the hill rolling dream!

Unfortunately we arrived at Pololu Valley as the sun made its way over to Korea but the beauty was hard to miss. After snapping another couple hundred pictures we admitted defeat and climbed back out. Yup, we hiked back down into another valley, this time stopping half way down the rutted and rocky trail. Legs unused to exercise loudly voiced their complaints.

How to end a day like this? How else-sushi at Sushi Rock in Hawi (http://www.yelp.com/biz/sushi-rock-hawi)!

After dinner a sky filled with brilliant stars watched over us on the drive home. The sounds of deep breathing from my sleeping friends played inside the car, attempting to lull me to sleep. I could have cranked up our stereo system, rocked out on the way home, but the iPod's placement in the trunk (not accidental) prevented that. Ah well. Still, a perfect day!